Alloy
A mixture of two or more metals frequently used in jewelry i.e.18 Karat gold. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Bail The attachment at the top of a pendant that enables it to hang from the chain.

Band
A ring which possesses the same width all the way round. Traditionally used for wedding rings. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Bangle A rigid bracelet that either slips over the hand or is clasped on.

Bar Setting

These are short bars that run like a railway track across a ring. Gemstones are individually set between these bars leaving the sides of the stones exposed to light. This technique maximizes the amount of light entering the gemstones creating superior brilliance and sparkle. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Bezel A component used to mount settings to ring shanks.

Bezel Setting
A “Bezel” setting is a crafted diskette of metal that holds the gemstone by its girdle to the ring, securely encircling the entire circumference of the gem. Variations of the “Bezel” setting are the “Flush” and “Gypsy” settings. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Bolt Ring A circular catch used for the fastening of necklaces or bracelet chains.

Box Clasp A box like hollow housing with a groove into which a tongue clicks into place to securely shut the clasp.

Brush Finish
Also known as “Satin” or “Matte” finish. This is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Butterflies
A component used in earrings. The “Butterfly” attaches the earring to the ear by being slid down the post of the earring that pierces the ear. Also known as “Scroll” pieces.

Carat
A unit of weight measurement for precious stones (not to be confused with “Karat”, a term used to denote gold purity ). Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Caribiner A clasping system similar to the bolt ring used for fastening chains.

Channel Setting
A setting technique whereby gemstones are held side-by-side by their girdles between two long tracks of precious metal. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Clasp Any type of attachment that joins two ends of a piece of jewelry.

Claw
A setting used to hold gemstones in place. Also known as a “Collet”. A claw consists of a “Bezel” and “Prongs”. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Cocktail Ring A large, slightly oversized ring set with precious and/or semiprecious gems.

Collet
A setting used to hold a gemstone in place on a ring. Also known as a “Claw”. A “Collet” consists of a “Bezel” and “Prongs”. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Curb A style of chain in which the uniformly sized links are twisted to create a flat chain.

Cushion
This refers to a style of “Signet” ring stamping. So called because of its shape which is square with rounded corners.

Double
Similar to rolled gold but instead of base metal the surface precious metal ‘veneer’ is bonded to another precious metal, usually silver or another carat gold of a different color. Also known as “Onlay”. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Drop Earring An earring that hangs below the earlobe. Also known as a “Dangle” earring.

Figaro Similar to the “Curb” chain, but possessing alternately sized links.

Filigree A lace-like ornamental work created from intricately arranged and intertwined wires.

Findings
A general term used to cover a variety of semi-finished components used in jewelry manufacturing such as settings, joints and catches.

Fine Gold & Fine Silver The term used to describe precious metals in their purest forms i.e., unalloyed with no additions. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Florentine Finish
A cross-hatched decorative technique engraved into the surface of a precious metal. The lines are coarser and more deeply incised than the “Brushed”, “Matte” or “Finish” methods .

Foldover Clasp
A clasp where the hinged part opens, passes through a ring and snaps shut holding the ring securely in place.

French Back
An earring system for non-pierced ears whereby the earring is attached to the earlobe by means of tightening a screw.

Gallery Strip
A length of precious metal which has been pierced to produce a continuous series of claws. Used for setting large semi-precious stones.

Half Hoop An earring that is not fully circular.

Hoop Earring A circular-shaped earring made from precious metal wire or tubing.

Hallmark
A stamped mark which is applied to items of jewelry and silverware as a guarantee of authenticity and acts as a safeguard to purchasers. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

High Polish High polish refers to the mirror-like surface of jewelry metal.

Illusions / Illusion Discs
A disc of patterned metal which is inserted into the top of a setting. The stone is then set into and surrounded by the disc in order to give the illusion of a larger stone.

Inlay A decorative feature of an item of jewelry, such as a gemstone. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

J Hoop A hooped earring design where the shape is not circular, but elongated similar to the letter “j”.

Jump Rings
A jump ring is an oval or round ring of metal wire used at the end of a chain to which a clasp or securing system is attached.

Karat A term used to denote gold purity. The designation for fine gold is 24ct therefore 9ct is 9/24 or 37.5% pure.A term used to denote gold purity. Pure gold or “Fine Gold” is 24 Karat; therefore, 24 Karat = 100%, 12 Karat = 50% etc. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Ligne A unit of measurement generally used to determine bangle widths. There are forty lignes to the inch.

Lobster Claw Clasp
A jewelry fastening or clasp shaped like a lobster claw. Possesses a spring-loaded arm to keep clasp securely closed. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Matte A frosted, non-shiny surface effect commonly used in precious metal jewelry. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Millgrain Edge An edge that has small beads or ridges, giving the effect seen on the edge of a coin.

Multistripe
A karat gold product made up of a combination of three different colored alloys (red, yellow and white) which are bonded together and when rolled gives a stripy colored effect. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Omega Back
A hinged fastening clasp that closely resembles the Greek letter, Omega. Used to secure earring posts to the ear.

Onlay
A decorative feature of an item of jewelry, such as a gemstone. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Pave Setting
“Pave” settings produce a carpet of brilliance across the entire surface of a piece of jewelry. The surface is encrusted, or quite literally “paved” in diamonds and gems, and the body of the jewelry is brought vibrantly to life. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Pinwire
A round wire used for the manufacturing of brooch pins and earwires. The wire is supplied hard so that it maintains its shape and rigidity during use.

Post
The pin-like component of an earring that passes through the pierced earlobe. Usually held in place by a fastening system behind the lobe, such as the “Butterfly” clasp.

Post and Omega
A hinged fastening clasp that closely resembles the Greek letter, Omega. Used to secure earring posts to the ear.

Prong Setting

This is the most frequently used method of setting gems into jewelry. Small metal claws with a vice-like grip are bent over the girdle of the gem to ensure its secure and enduring position in the ring. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Rolled Gold
A base metal alloy bonded to a “veneer” of precious metal, usually 10 Karat. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Rope A style of chain in which the links are intertwined to resemble a length of rope.

Safety Catch
A secondary fastening used for securing jewelry that guarantees the safety of the jewelry should the main fastening break. Usually seen as a hinged loop that snap closes one side of a clasp to the other. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Satin Finish
Also known as “Brushed” or “Matte” finish, this is a precious metal texturing technique used on jewelry where a series of very fine parallel lines are scratched on the surface to create a “Matte” texture. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Screw Back
A highly secure earring fastening system whereby a nut screws onto a threaded earring post.

Scrolls
Also known as “Butterflly clasps”, they are a component used in earrings. They attach the earring to the ear by being slid down the post that pierces the ear.

Seal Set
A “Signet” ring, usually stamped, which is set with a semi-precious stone e.g., Onyx. A seal set ring differs from a stone set ring in that the stone protrudes out of the ring surface and is surrounded by an open rim rather than solid metal.

Setting
This refers to the style in which a gemstone is held in place in the jewelry. Commonly seen settings include; “Bezel”, “Pave”, “Channel” and “Prong”. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Shank The round encircling body of the ring.

Shoulders The upper part of the ring. Positioned between the upper shank and the setting.

Snap Bar Closure A hinged, straight bar that lifts up and down to secure or release earrings.

Solitaire
A single gem or diamond featured in a simple setting style. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Split Shoulders A v-like split in the ring’s shoulders that joins the setting.

Spring Ring Clasp
A rounded fastening consisting of a circular wire inside a hollow, circular tube. Usually kept shut by a coiled spring. Frequently used in necklaces.

Stamp
Precious metals should always carry a stamp of purity on them. Gold carries a “Karat” mark upon it, but silver and platinum carry percentages or other numerical marks. Such stamps should be augmented by the manufacturer’s mark as well. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Sterling Silver A high quality silver alloy with a minimum quality of 92.5%. Please refer to the Precious Metals Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Tennis Bracelet
A flexible, chain-like bracelet made up of evenly matched gems or diamonds. There are many variations of this popular bracelet style.

Tiffany Setting
A round, six-pronged setting. The “Tiffany” setting has long, slender prongs flaring out from the base. Popularized by Tiffany & Co., New York. Please refer to the Jewelry Setting Buyer’s Guide for more information.

Toggle Clasp
A fastening consisting of a ring at one end of a bracelet or necklace and a short bar on the other. The bar passes through the ring to sit across it, securely fastening the two ends together.